J. Crew jacket and black shirt, Old Navy khaki linen shirt, Uniqlo cropped pants, Bally shoes
Dries Van Noten bag, AP watch
With all the ooh-ing and aaaah-ing over J. Crew by the fashion crowd recently (see one example of the latest gushing at Fashionista
here), I have found myself distancing myself from the store/brand that was my go-to for the last few years. Maybe it's my anti-majoritarian tendencies. Maybe I liked J. Crew when it
was less cool and still emerging as a preppy-stylish competitor to Ralph Lauren. Maybe my olive complexion can only handle so many washed out pastels and aches for the brights and patterns of the J. Crew of yesteryear. Maybe there are just things that have gone wrong under the direction of the so oft-lauded stylist extraordinaire Jenna Lyons:
A [BRIEF] CASE AGAINST J. CREW
1.
Pricing: I am not the only one to notice the price-points of J. Crew steadily inching up with every new catalog that arrives in the mail. While I do still think that J. Crew pieces are quite decent quality, they are rather basic (no matter how many ruffles you put on a t-shirt) and it is still a mass-market store (i.e., not special in the least bit). If I want to pay $14000 for something, I would probably go for something like
this, rather than
this very blah and ill-fitting sequin tank dress (or you could get
this awesome Proenza dress for $500 dollars less than the J. Crew). And don't even get me started on the shoes... The quality and design aesthetic of J. Crew, as cute as it may be, is NOT at the level of high-end designers--nor need it be--and it's prices need to reflect the fact that it is, and will always be, a mall-store.
2. Styling: I'm probably going to get a lot of flack from other people about this, as the consensus seems near unanimous about Jenna Lyons' styling prowess, but I am frankly sick and tired of her overstyled everything-and-the-kitchen-sink approach to styling. Maybe piling 20 J. Crew pieces into one outfit is a smart marketing move, not only to get merchandise out the door, but also to try to push J. Crew's image to a more fashion-forward one. But really, how many dress shirts need to be piled one on top of each other for them to be innovative? It smacks of a "Emperor's New Clothes" type of situation. Once all the schizophrenic, caution-to-the-wind styling is pared down, J. Crew has, in my opinion, gotten more boring. Yet everyone is happy to hop onto the Lyons bandwagon. How many pastel t-shirts with ruffles do we need? How many sparkly necklaces? How many pieces devoid of all humor? One of the things I used to really love about J. Crew that, in its embrace of American WASP sensibilities, it had fun with color and print every season. It was whimsical and, at worst, too prep-school or New England-y. It had an identity. Now it just looks like any other mid-range wannabe street-fashion brand...which brings me to...
3. Identity Crisis: Not to be repetitive, but J. Crew, after it's weird Banana Republic/bohemian phase in the late 90s, had successfully [re]branded itself as a reliable purveyor of Americana sportswear in the vein of Ralph Lauren. While it still retains some of the basic elements of this preppy style, its identity seems to have weakened under the influence of Ms. Lyons. Before, J. Crew represented not just one type of look, but different facets of a lifestyle. Now, the image I am starting to associate with J. Crew is one of a one-dimensional, shallow girl (note even woman) with no context. Just a girl who has to do errands or go to work. Even when pictured in far-flung exotic locations, there doesn't seem to be much story behind the different collections, just a hodge-podge of current trends layered one on top of the other. It seems like there really isn't a direction at J. Crew except to create mini-Jennas. There is no lifestyle they are selling. Not only is that damaging to the brand in the long-run, but it makes for some very one-dimensional, flat clothing. It just leaves me with a bad taste in my mouth. I don't want a company that sells clothes so I can look like some other person. I want to shop somewhere that lets me create the characters for myself.
4. Menswear: I have less of an issue with menswear than the womenswear. My only real complaint is that it is starting to suffer from the same one-dimensionality that afflicts the womenswear line. It is fine and even necessary for them to incorporate the new rugged outdoors-y trends that are so hot in menswear right now, but I think they should add a bit of diversity to also incorporate more polished looks and not just crutch on streetstyle.