A Handsome Woman

Patrik Ervell men's shirt, J. Crew vest, Ralph Lauren Blue Label jacket, random stirrup leggings, Ralph Lauren Collection boots

 

While Milan Fashion week has just ended and a review is belated, I cannot help but digress a bit due to what was, by divine scheduling fluke, a kind of Fashion Christmas for me--both Dries Van Noten and Rochas showing on the same day!  While both collections were an exercise in subtlety (read: not minimalism), I definitely got excited about the mature and quietly scintillating prespective both collections presented.  Dries's starting point was "a handsome woman", which to me is a woman who wears the clothes, not the other way around.  There's not much obvious finery (other than some stunning specially-designed paillettes), not much pomp and circumstance--just wearably luxe clothes  in harmony with the persona of this, as Suzy Menkes put it, androgynously elegant woman.  The clothes are almost an afterthought--albeit a impeccably chosen and tailored afterthought.  In a similar vein, Rochas designer Marco Zanini wanted to reference "your own closet"; to make the clothing personal, an appendage of the woman.  And, although perhaps with a smidge less penache than Dries, Zanini also succeeded at creating clothes that were more than the almagamation of the 40s --->70s--->90s progression that we've seen all over S/S 2011.  These were throroughly modern collections precisely because they went beyond literal references to the very heart and soul of the woman.  She is the one to determine the success or failure of each piece on her own terms.   The designers were just there to give her the tools and some (great) suggestions.

 Dries Van Noten S/S 2011 (via vogue.com):

 Dying for these wide-legged pants!

 
Rochas S/S 2011 via wwd.com):

Boots Made for Hiking

 Marni top, random leggings, Chloe shearling-lined boots

 You will not believe how quietly I can sneak out in these gum-soles

Inclement weather is always a good excuse to go a little more casual at work, and, since New York is in for a dreary few days, I thought I would break out my new gum-soled Chloe utilitarian boots (and leggings, damn it all).  While I know some are still on the fence about the new luxe hiking boot trend, I say if you live somewhere where the weather gets awful, it just makes sense.  Even heeled versions most often have sturdy rubber soles with traction, and some (like these Chloes) even have cozy shearling or fur lining.  Could there be anything more practical for winter?  I, for one, see them as a God-send and a happy alternative the huge fuzzy rabbit boots I usually trudge around in when it's 20 degrees outside, which, along with my long puffy coat, layers of arm warmers and mittens and gloves, scarf, and some kind of hat with ear-flaps,  make me look like one of the crazy bag ladies that live at the corner. Now I'll just look like a crazy bag lady who stole someone's shoes.

Some cute utilitarian options that run the gamut from Victorian to street to undeniably luxurious (I'm looking at you Burberry):

See by Chloe at Net-A-Porter

Target boot at target.com

Rag & Bone at shopbop.com

Tod's at mytheresa.com

Tory Burch at mytheresa.com

Burberry at mytheresa.com

The Weekend Girl: Street Style

 Alexander Wang pants (the back half is striped silk), Guess top, men's Dries Van Noten jacket, Rochas wedges, Celine bag

So, in the interest of adding something new and exciting to the blog, I thought I would play around every so often and do a "Weekend Girl" post--sometimes to show something I've worn during the week in a non-work context, sometimes to share things I just REALLY love (and only REALLY love, rest-assured), sometimes for other random topics, and sometimes just to embarrass myself.  I thought this outfit from the other day (using a shirt last worn to work here) was kind of fun and funny-- I like to call it my "street" outfit [insert laugh here].  But seriously, I was looking to be comfy and I had these loose-fit Alexander Wang denim/striped silk pants from the Wang sample sale lying around, so I just kind of went for...something.  And yes, those grey men's underpants peaking out are part of the pants, not my fabulous styling.  Hey, if you can't laugh at yourself, you can't laugh at anything, right?   :)

Shopping... Rules!

 DKNY blouse from Gabay's Outlet, Dries Van Noten skirt, Marc Jacobs shoes, necklace from Mom

This blurriness is a poor attempt to convey the fabulous movement of the skirt

Love the uneven hem and accordion pleats

One of the few pieces of jewelry my Mom will let me have because she thinks I'll lose it all (which may not be entirely unfounded...)

I am officially deeming it the Year of the Long Skirt.  You heard it here first.  Obviously influenced by my love for the Erdem outfit below, I was completely ecstatic to break out this Dries skirt that was one of the few purchases I made at the Barneys Warehouse Sale this year.  I wish I had a video to really demonstrate the cinematic movement on this thing.  It has a perky bounce and sunny disposition the likes of which I have never seen in another skirt.  Best of all, it was 95% off!  Which brings me to the meat of this post--due to my penchant for very expensive things, I have had to become something of a bargain connoisseur,  if I do say so myself. It's not that I don't occasionally splurge on the things I absolutely love, but when it happens it is still always within reason (and within monthly budgets!).  It helps to be organized at the beginning of each season, and though it's a bit of work up-front, the money you save (and the clothes you don't regret) are totally worth it.  Below are few of the simple steps I try to take before each season to make sure the shopping doesn't get too (emphasis on too) out of control:

1. Research.  If you  love style and fashion enough to covet certain looks, you definitely have the time to do your homework before the start of a season (or preferably, when collections first show, which significantly ups the chances of finding deep discounts from the end of the season before).  No extensive cataloging system or excel sheets are necessary, but at least make a mental list of the collections you love, why you love them, and which pieces in particular you feel you can't live without.  Also make note of the suggested retail prices so you know what kind of discounts you are or aren't getting.  This first step is the talisman from which all other shopping choices will stem, so don't phone it in  Especially with high street churning out runway-inspired looks with increasing alacrity, if you know what inspires you, you'll be able to notice those details in even the most unexpected places (like, say, a Delia's for example--true story).
2. Go Out Into the Field.  This is probably a no-brainer whether you buy anything or not, but definitely go out into the field to see and try-on the things you love in person.  See how the fit is running with the designers you love that season, feel the fabrics, know the product, even if you think there's no way in a million years you could ever afford that $4,000 Prada dress.  You never know when a sample sale in person or on-line could pop up and you won't have but a minute to make decisions!   Even better (for the bank account) you could find that the style/fit just doesn't work for you and it can get crossed off the list without any damage, psychological or financial.
3. Risk Analysis.  This really applies to full-priced (and discretionary) items the most, but can also be applied to what stage of markdown you decide to purchase.  This is not an exact science by any means, but I think it's helpful to at least think about how much something is in demand, what the supply is, etc.  If there are 10 stores with those Rag & Bone pants, chances are they'll be around come sale time.  That Comme des Garcons runway jacket?  Not so much.  I try to only pay full-price for things I think are going to be in short supply or that I actually need (yes, this happens!).
4. Compare. Whether buying full-price or on-sale, always COMPARE, COMPARE, COMPARE.  Even if you buy something on the spur-of-the-moment, we have been afflicted with the internet for better or worse, so use it for some better.  It will take approximately two seconds to Google your prize and you could potentially save hundreds of dollars--I know I have. 
5. Take Stock.  I think it helps to periodically take stock of the list you made in #1 and purge  it of unnecessary items or fads you've gotten over.  It's easy to get an idea in your head that fluorescent overalls are amazing and then have it get stuck there until you end up buying them reflexively 4 months later and have no idea why.  If you keep updating your list, your shopping auto-pilot will be much more finely tuned.
6. Always Be Looking.  Even if it's that Balenciaga shoe from 3 seasons ago, with sites like theoutnet.com and yoox.com around now--as well as a gaggle of  brick-and-mortar discount stores--things have a way of springing up on you.  Just keep your eyes open and you can end up with what you  initially thought was only wishful thinking more often than not.

That's my economic stimulus PSA for the day.  Thanks for coming, you've all been great. :)

Natty Light

Thakoon pants, Uniqlo jacket, Guess Collection sweater vest, random white shirt, Prada shoes

I call this "The Flamingo"

You can kind of make out the ruffle in the back...

(Apologies for the slightly fuzzy pictures--we were in a hurry this morning and didn't realize!).  I was feeling in the natty mood this morning, to the point that I don't think a top hat, pocket watch, or cane would seem out of place with this outfit.  Maybe it has been all the talk of nostalgia as of late, but I was inspired as I dug up yet another piece of my past (my Guess past that is--it really was my favorite store circa 8th grade, my guesss (get it? get it?) is that I bought something from there every other week or so).  The shoes are also a nice trip down memory lane--my first designer shoe purchase after starting my job at the firm in New York.  Things were on crazy-sale the winter of '08 (unfortunately due to the recession) and I just couldn't resist the little whimsical ruffle/petal details (which are partially obscured due to the subpar photo--sorry again!).  I was also intrigued by the weird front part of the shoe, which is just. kind of...weird.  I think it kind of makes my foot look like a duck from certain angles.  And I love them for that.  I think?

Ok, but in serious news, it finally happened!  As of 10 AM this morning, I have been not only inspired, but transported to another more beautiful, more sophisticated, and infinitely more elegant world:

 

THE SS 2011 look from Erdem  (via style.com)

WANT. HAVE.  NEED. NOOOOOW!   While florals are nothing new for Erdem,* I cannot convey in words how much I love this slightly Edwardian (sans mutton sleeves, thank god), slightly tea-party,  slightly float-y dancer-esque confection of a look!  If they don't produce this, God help the Erdem PR people  because I will go through hell and high water to get it.  Let's just say if a certain celebrity stylist with the initials RZ need be forced upon fear of bodily injury to request the dress for a "celebrity" (with intitials WG), so be it.  Also, I am interpreting existence of this look as the universe trying to tell me that my new long-skirt obsession was well-founded and even prescient.  Although it will not be complete until this is mine.....grrrr.....

But enough about me, back to the collection--it was nothing short of delightful, even if not necessarily revolutionary.  It just made me smile and feel as though I had those diamond stars in my eyes that cartoons are wont to get.  And while there were a few looks that meandered too much into the saccharine (albeit the elegantly saccharine), many of the pieces are amongst the most beautiful I have seen this season.  Many are also inventive in a sneaky way (for example, this lace dress layered with more lace--such a simple concept, such a divine pay off).  Great things were also done with red embroidery over lace (almost a sterilized Dexter-like blood spatter effect, but pretty).  Overall, as refreshing as an afternoon tea. 

*Erdem was started in 2005 by Erdem Moralioglu, a graduate of the Royal College of Art  who paid his dues at Diane von Furstenberg before starting his own line.  Just this year, Moralioglu won the first ever British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Award (and a sizable GBP 200,000).  And the word Erdem apparently means "wisdom and knowledge" in Mongolian according to Wikipedia. So there ya go, you kind of have no choice but to check it out.  SS 2011 is here; the rest here.

Rock n Roll Law Firm

Ben Sherman blazer, Proenza Schouler shirt, Guess Collection pants from the '90s, Bally shoes, Jan Michaels ring

So, when I was younger (much younger), I bought these pants as a splurge because I totally thought they were totally high-end rock-n-roll.  Keeping in that vein, I thought I would break them out again (although really mostly because I was looking for something comfortable--love the spandex craze of that era!) and paired them with a bit of a Brit-rock inspired blazer and a little school-girl punk shirt.  In general, I think a printed pant or bottom can be a great way to throw in an element of the unexpected to a work outfit.  While I am not completely convinced this is actually rock-n-roll in any way, shape, or form, I can tell you about one thing that is:  Olivier Theyskens for Theory. I neglected to include it in my round-up for NYFW since it's not a regularly-produced line, but make no mistake, it's at the top of my list for spring.  A preview of the collection was held during NYFW and all I can say is that it brilliantly holds true to the romantic, moody, slightly gothic vision of Theyskens, while being infused with the practicality (both price- and design-wise) of Theory. The ultimate (and maybe only) rock star/work collection!  I especially love how Theyskens cut the jackets to "shrug" forward-- a wonderful and just-right touch of subversiveness.  Prices will be 30-40% higher than the regular Theory line, but oodles less than any of the couture-like creations Theyskens made for fashion houses like Nina Ricci and Rochas. The collection will be out Spring 2011.  Needless to say, I'm already saving up.

Epitome of cool.  These looks, as well as the rest of the preview at: style.com

Camel Tone

Dries Van Noten blazer, Club Monaco t-shirt, J. Crew pants, seal mocassins by Odette LeBlanc

 I had all these grand blog plans for NYFW.  I would finally be inspired by new creative visions daily to resuscitate my style from the ease of the dog days of summer.   I would create outfits based on my favorite collections!   To my chagrin, that turned out to be a total of two-and-a-half collections, (with a handful of honorable mentions) which made me think to give up the whole endeavor altogether.   Even the "trends" that have emerged as NYFW draws to a close are weak and half-hearted at best:  sheers, nudes, whites, the '70s, seafoam green.  Is this all American fashion has to offer?

But first the good, I loved the direction and aesthetic of the Richard Chai Love show.  This was sheer taken to a new level--not merely addressed, but reinterpreted really.  There are bits and pieces of the sheer elements seen in some recent Marc Jacobs shows, some Helmut Lang influence in the minimalism, but I think Richard really put something together that subsumed those influences  successfully to create an attitude and look that was truly his.    

I also thought the Rodarte collection was fantastic.  While they may have toned down the other-worldliness of their fairy/elfin/warrior/princess creations in favor of a down to earth and  (literally) roots-y collection, I don't think much was lost in the transition.  To me, it was easily the most inspired and inspiring collection I had seen all week.  It was the only collection I didn't have to intellectualize and rationalize.  The only one that seemed to speak to that intuitive part of me that adores fashion.  The amalgamation of wood prints (and I thought only McQueen could pull off such a daring concept), Chinese porcelain prints and lumberjack plaids hit a strong chord in me--and while it might be a little dissonant, that's what makes it all the more provocative and stirring.

The last collection that caught my eye was Proenza Schouler, although it was no where near as innovative and evocative as the last two seasons where they really had strong  and unique points of view.  This season was still very Proenza cool, but muddled with some Chanel and ladies-who-lunch thing.  There were  indeed many pretty things, many cool things, many chic things, but I didn't really get where this girl came from or was going, other than from a very cool boutique. Will I end up wanting and buying pieces from the collection?  Definitely.  Just wish they had gone a little further with the concept because we all know they can.

And this brings me to my overall critique of what I saw everyday from NYFW:  reiteration not innovation.  I fear that the "nostalgia obsession" that seems to have consumed all other aspects of American culture has finally gotten at American fashion as well.  In small doses, and in the right context, nostalgia can be an effective vehicle through which to achieve emotional resonance with one's audience.  But nostalgia for nostalgia's sake does nothing but suffocate originality.   Not to say that  the past should not influence the present and future.  To the contrary, intelligent study of the past is the key to future innovation and success; however, nostalgia shouldn't be confused with history, it is sentimentality plain and simple.  A forlorn remnant of something past.  There is no zeitgeist in that pleasant memory to forge ahead on which to pave new paths and to improve older ones.  There is instead a yearning to recreate the pleasant feeling--it's the ultimate opiate.

American politics has fallen prey to a misplaced nostalgia for the good ol' days, back when women and minorities and homosexuals and poor people weren't given the time of day (thank you Glenn Beck and FoxNews).  It goes: things aren't so great now, so let's re-create the past, but not even how it actually was, but in how we mistakenly wish-remember it!  Yes!  Historical revisionism at it's best.  Same goes with pop culture.  Pop music is just lesser and lesser auto-tuned copies of Madonna or Michael Jackson or the Beatles or Nirvana or something else from decades ago.  The "independent" music scene is no better.  Hipsters love their nostalgia like no other, first supposedly "ironically", now with reckless abandon.    Even restaurants have gotten in on the nostalgia kick, each week some new restaurant dedicated to some kind of gluttonous comfort food you only got on special occasions when you were a kid.  And, of course, all are supremely successful because they give people want they want--a fuzzy feel-good but completely sedated life, drug-free!  I had hoped that at least fashion would not fall prey to such an easy cop-out.  An industry obsessed with the new couldn't become complacent with mere copies of the past? But then Marc Jacobs sends out a horribly literal amalgamation of '70s Yves Saint Laurent, Missoni, etc., and is lauded all around.  Yes, the clothes are pretty--but that's it.  There was  just no point of view,  no statement, only some pretty things to pass the time with.  I guess that's ok.  But it's definitely not great.