NYFW Fall 2011 - Michael Kors

Rochas scarf, sweater, and shoes; Dries Van Noten skirt, Proenza Schouler shirt, Balenciaga bag, Ray Ban sunglasses

(pictures from the beautifully-shot blog Citizen Couture)

You can also see this outfit on Elle Japan's blog, NYMag, and Le Fashion

And here it is, the lastbof my personal NYFW Fall 2011 diary exactly a week after it ended!  Timeliness was never one of my strong suits.  But, it ended, and end it did with a bang courtesy of the Michael Kors show, a place where all the the fashion big guns come to flex their sartorial muscle (and which included my first ever Anna Dello Russo sighting in real life, complete with gilded cherries on top).  I can safely say that it was the consummate fashion show.  Celebrities, looped electronic remixes, long runways, supermodels--t had it all.  While I may have preferred to go to, say, a Proenza Schouler  show over Michael Kors, there's no denying that the man does over-the-top '70s goddess glam like no other.  And that he did, fittingly to commemorate his 30th year in fashion.  Furs were waterfalls of sumptuousness; sequins glittered like beads of poist-coital sweat; power suits were tailored for perfection (and domination).  Not a bad way to close out what will hopefully not be my last trip to the tents! 

 (collection images via style.com)

Alas, now it's back to reality and to fashion nerd-dom--so many shows to catch up on!

I leave you with a new shot of the "arctic raver" (also from Citizen Couture).

NYFW Fall 2011 - House of Waris and Frank Tell

 Proenza Schouler  J. Brand jeans, Dries Van Noten sweater, YSL trench, Apart Mongolian lamb vest, Rag & Bone boots

Day 5 of NYFW was pretty tame for me, as you can see not even any street style pics!  Life can be tough some times (just kidding!).  Of course, I chalk it up to the face that I only had a couple of evening engagements where the light will just not do (can you feel the sarcasm dripping on you?).  The first of those was one I had been really looking forward to--the House of Waris presentation.  Many of you may know designer Waris Ahluwalia from his appearances in Wes Anderson films like The Life Aquatic and The Darjeeling Limited, but he is also a fabulous jewelry designer and all-around cool dude.  The jewelry is totally East-meets-West with great Indian-inspired settings and craftsmanship (he was born in Amritsar, India) complemented by clean European lines (the pieces are finished in his workshop in Italy).  Being, you know, real jewelry for the most part, I haven't yet been able to get my hands on yummy things like this, so salivating will have to do.  And, being the silly girl I am, I had also hoped to strike up a convo with Waris about my upcoming trip to India (so that we could become awesome friends and he would invite me to all the cool stuff in New York that I only know about through pictures on the internets days later), but had importantly forgotten just how popular he is on the social scene.  Having gone alone, I was quickly cowed by Italian fashion editors, socialites, artsy-types, and other members of the "cool crowd" who I obviously couldn't even make eye contact with.  If you had seen me, I would have looked like the most popular text-getter ever, I was so glued to my phone in an attempt to not look totally lame and alone.  Major FAIL.  

The pic/setting does not do justice, but I need to have earrings like that in my life before I die

Then came a quick jaunt to Lincoln Centerfor the Frank Tell presentation, which largely garnered my attention due to influence/suggestion of Feigned Perfection (much appreciated). All I can say is that I was pleasantly surprised by the up-and-comer. Although the collection was a bit over-styled at times, the Arctic princess-warrior seems to be gaining traction in the fashion world (see also Rag & Bone F/W 2011) cut a strong figure and really stood out amongst the crowd of  interchangeable designers.  Raw-edged moto jackets and multi-yarn knits over relaxed and long silhouettes felt really empowering.  Even the fur managed to capture a refined notion of tribalism and inject some excitement at what was becoming--pardon the horrible pun--overkill by the end of the week.  I'm interested to see what comes in the future and how the apparent multitude of  new ideas is translated and streamlined as the label matures.

(collection images via style.com)

NYFW Fall 2011 - Chris Benz and Thom Browne

 (from Refinery29)

Theyskens' Theory pants and jacket, Ralph Lauren Blue Label sweater, J. Crew scarf, Tory Burch boots, Balenciaga bag

I'm not going to dwell on Chris Benz's collection, no offense to him--it was a perfectly fun, pleasing take on  the Savannah-Southern-belle-meets-Wiccan-art-student look (ha, if that's a "look), but  it ended up being a bit of a wallflower for me.  Thom Browne, on the other hand, W-O-W.  The man knows how to put on a show, that's for damn sure.  And, in a sea of shows filled with monotonous Euro-beats and directionless but wearable clothes, it was a delight to see a collection with a vision--especially a sardonic and subversive one at that!  A brief overview of the cabal: a wood-paneled room in the New York Public Library was made up to look like a church, with a makeshift altar at the head of the room presided over by two exceptionally lovely altar boys in knee socks and signature Thom Browne shorts suits (quite naughty if you ask me!).  Behind rows of colossal desks stood Flying Nuns, with extra-large habits and extra-thick avian eyelashes.  One-by-one they would approach the altar to be defrocked by the altar boys and do their little turn on the catwalk.  The clothing that was revealed was pure Thom Browne--sharp suits in clashing plaids and stripes, very Balenciaga cocoon shapes, and whimsical embellishments.  What I loved most was a loose theme of "emergence" that, well, emerged from the spectacle.  Besides the obvious defrocking, I thought the cocoon shapes really reinforced the sentiment of a "coming-out" of sorts, as did the bird-like makeup and hair (the thick lashes and egg-shell caps immediately  made me think of baby ostriches).  The '50s  tinged doo-wop music ( the slyly defiant "How Do You Solve a Problem Like Maria?" started things off), only underlined the theme for me and made me think about the faint beginnings of the women's lib movement during that time, which, while powerful and groundbreaking, were (and still are) under heavy constrictions.  Much like this Thom Browne collection, where liberating ideas about gender, silhouette and pattern contrasted against traditional, almost constrictive shapes.  For an inaugural collection, I was pleasantly surprised both aesthetically and intellectually. Some may have though it over-the-top theatrical, but when there's such wondeful tongue-in-cheek humor (and strong design bones), how can you not enjoy it?  I can't wait until next season!

(collection images via style.com, see the full collection here)

NYFW Fall 2011- Derek Lam, Preen, and Thakoon

 (from style.it)

Apart coat, Proenza Schouler t-shirt and bag, Dries Van Noten skirt, Giuseppe Zanotti boots, Prada sunglasses

If you haven't figured it out yet, I'm reviewing the shows I actually saw in person first, and not necessarily the ones I liked most, or thought were most important.  And this batch pretty much exemplifies that fact, as it's a total mixed bag of nuts!

Derek Lam was first up at a bright and early (fashion week-wise) 10 am!  I enjoyed the '70s redux of Lam's Spring 2011 collection, and was similarly surprised that the Fall 2011 collection was just as enjoyable, if not even more so.  Lam matured into a '90s-by-way-of-70's vibe for the collection, showing a lot of poncho shapes in a great greenish-grey flannel wool, and a series of  showstopping long, pleated gowns to close the show.  The tailoring was precise when needed, relaxed when necessary, and refreshing, in the most understated way.  After seeing a sea of Burberry shearling aviator jackets this week, I vowed never to cast a  lustful eye on the type again; I had to eat my words pretty fast after Lam showed a great voluminous windbreaker with shearling lining that approached the tired combination with a new eye.  It wasn't an earth-shattering show, but there was something indelible about the quietness of its elegance.

 Preen, on the other hand, was anything but quiet, even if it did have its moments (few) of elegance.  The show started off with a pastiche of crafty looking things that mostly reminded me of a poorer version of the embroidery Christopher Kane did for his celebrated Fall 2010 collection.  The second movement suited me much better--color-blocked tulip pencil skirts actually made me pine for my corporate days (but only for a second).  Then there was a big WTF moment for me when a large section of pieces covered in what appeared to be a furry fungus (see 3rd image clockwise below) rolled out ad nauseum.  The last movement was comprised of a slew of sequined shirts that were intriguing in that they were embellished by what looked to me like sequin worms (or, for the more fashionably inclined, Peppercotton necklaces)--an improvement from what could have been just your usual run-of-the-mill bling.  Overall, the collection just seemed to lack cohesion and a focused point of view, even if some of the pieces were attractive on their own.  

 Then it was the big one--Thakoon at the Plaza!  It may have been one of the most intimidating experiences I've had in a long time.  Plaza ballroom.  Evening show.  Fashion glitterati.  Need I say more?  Gawking from my perch on one of the side balconies of the ballroom onto the gilded chairs that held a who's who of fashion, I finally felt like I was at a fashion show.  The opulent setting wasn't for naught either; it perfectly set off Thakoon's inspiration for the collection: rococo-meets-masaai-warrior.  Disparate?  Yes, but on the Marie Antoinette French blue runway lit by crystal chandeliers, tribal beats and joyous prints somehow felt so right.  My favorite juxtaposition of the evening (there were many!) was the African-inspired brightly-colored cutaway puffer coats--finally someone made those chic!  And how.  The shape perfectly mimicked the bustled silhouette of 18th century French haute bourgeoisie and the accompanying prints were a cheeky comment on that well-known aristocratic proclivity for exotica.  I haven't decided if the show my favorite of the week quite just yet, but it did but the biggest smile on my face, and that might just count for even more.

(all collection images via style.com)

NYFW 2011 - Patrik Ervell

 Patrik Ervell shirt, Proenza Schouler dress, Club Monaco tights, Giuseppe Zanotti glitter boots, Nina Ricci coat (from Decadestwo.1), Opening Ceremony hat

While I was slated to attend the much-anticipated Prabal Gurung Saturday morning, due to a ticket mix-up, I unfortunately had to miss it.  Although, I have to say the extra two hours of sleep did me a lot of good.  While I'm in no way complaining about any of Fashion Week, it's really lived up to the hype for me, it is pretty tiring--and I don't even really go to any of the parties, or that many shows!  I blame the fact that most shows are held in super windy locations, it really knocks all the strength out of ya.  I imagine the spring shows in September are a little easier to navigate.  Anywho, I did get up in time for what was probably one of the most anticipated shows on my list (and it's not even a women's show!)--Patrik Ervell.  As dedicated followers probably already know, I've worn the above shirt to death (and am looking to add some more to my collection).  I absolutely love the figure he cuts for guys--intellectual, artistic, slightly awkward, and always polished.  This season didn't disappoint in excelling in all those categories, and maybe adding a few more.  First off, I think the atmosphere was the most striking of the shows I've seen--dramatic parachute material, wind machines, and swelling strings (courtesy of Siouxsie and the Banshees) created an almost euphoric, dreamy backdrop to the vaguely parachuting-inspired wear.  Shots of electric blue (it's going to be big people!) and zipper detailing ran through bomber jackets, flight suits, and the standard men's separates.  An electric blue suit was my favorite---all the guys out there--GET ONE! I think there was a lot that could be borrowed for the girls as well.  Besides the usual impeccable shirts, I think the softly pleated pants could really work on the right lady.  I'll definitely be trying!  Overall, I think this kid is one to watch in menswear and beyond.  There's something so precise but oddly liberating about his look, and you know I'm a sucker for those kind of contradictions.

(collection images via style.com)

NYFW Fall 2011- Peter Som and Doo.Ri

 

 J. Crew turtleneck, Proenza Schouler leather dress, Hue tights, Balenciaga shoes, Design + Conquer earrings, Marni bag and mittens

For the second day of New York Fashion Week, I decided to go in the opposite direction from the first day--goodbye organic, earthy nomad, hello arctic raver.  I just felt like having fun and being a little over-the-top, and, well, I think I accomplished that!  I went to Peter Som and Doo.Ri, which were as disparate to each other as my outfit choices so far, although both lovely in their own way.  Peter Som delivered his newest take on the beautiful uptown-girl with a twist, and there were some really standout moments.  I really liked the random patches of fur (on the arms, almost a bit gorilla-ish!), as well as a gorgeous metallic silver dress with ostrich feather pockets.  The high point, however, was the footwear for me.  Som should really try expanding the availability of the line because he has been hitting it out of the park lately-- I thought these boots were to die for from this past fall, and the patent kelly green cap toes on this collections shoes were spot-on funky elegance.

Later that day was Doo.Ri.  While I'm not necessarily the biggest fan--sometimes her collections can be a bit too basic for my tastes--I think this collection was the best one I've seen her do yet.  The floor-length jackets and dramatic cutaways made for a lean and mean silhouette that still managed to exude feminine sex appeal (much aided by over-the-knee lace up boots).  I thought the collection showed growth by leaps and bounds, and am definitely going to keep my I out for it once it hits stores next year.

In other exciting news...one of my favorite blogs is Tommy Ton's Jak and Jil (ok, it's definitely my favorite), and I always die over his fashion week coverage on style.com.  Lo and behold, I'm featured on it not only once, but twice already!  Here's the link for the drool-worthy slideshow, below are the two pics of me:

I also seem to have popped up on beautifulstranger.tv, huff post, style and the city, and facehunter.  I'm not going to lie, it's pretty exciting for a nobody like me to get snapped!

Some of my fave looks from Peter Som and Doo.Ri (I tried my own photos, but my point-and-shoot is just too slow):

Peter Som:

 

Doo.Ri:

 (collection photos from style.com, except Peter Som shoes, from glamour.com)